Getting into Pench was far easier than what we thought, considering most of us had never heard about this place. An overnight train from CST (Nagpur Doronto), a stopover at Veeraswamy's in Nagpur for breakfast, the airport to pick up a friend, and we were on our way to Pench. Well I also should have mentioned the resort had sent a cab along to meet us at the station, which did help logistics a lot. Oh yes, while waiting for our friend to arrive, we drove through the entire Santra Market without securing even the smallest of citruses, but did manage to get musambis in Sita Buldi while shopping for Saris. So much for sampling their oranges.An uneventful drive, complicated by stopping to pick up alcohol (just in case) just inside the Maharashtra b
order. It was only much later I realised that alcohol is so much cheaper in MP. Telephone lines flanking the road were sprinkled with the occasional Blue Jay and Drongo, birds that we eventually saw in more detail at the national park. Well, we reached Tiger n Woods, the resort in Pench , at around 1330. And the manager looks questioningly at us, and after we establish credentials, says we're not booked, but he can manage to 
give us one room, and no Safaris. Needless to say, with two thug like, red-blooded men in our group, the Manager was in for hell. So while we two fine specimens of aggression and forcefulness sipped meekly on our complimetary orange juice, the sweet and charm of the ladies magically morphed into a frightening tirade against the Manager, his resort, and the resorts owners and anyone else. Such was their insistence (we had the right after all), that the manager agreed to give us two rooms on stilts alongside each other . He also organised a safari for us, and managed to see we had lunch as well. After the initial unpleasantness, the rest of our stay in the resort went off without a hitch. It was actually a fantastic experience, with the staff being absolutely charming, but never fawning, and efficient, short of being intrusive. Turns out (and please note, for those traveling there) that the parent company had only recently acquired this resort and needless to say, communication lines weren't exactly functioning well.
order. It was only much later I realised that alcohol is so much cheaper in MP. Telephone lines flanking the road were sprinkled with the occasional Blue Jay and Drongo, birds that we eventually saw in more detail at the national park. Well, we reached Tiger n Woods, the resort in Pench , at around 1330. And the manager looks questioningly at us, and after we establish credentials, says we're not booked, but he can manage to 
give us one room, and no Safaris. Needless to say, with two thug like, red-blooded men in our group, the Manager was in for hell. So while we two fine specimens of aggression and forcefulness sipped meekly on our complimetary orange juice, the sweet and charm of the ladies magically morphed into a frightening tirade against the Manager, his resort, and the resorts owners and anyone else. Such was their insistence (we had the right after all), that the manager agreed to give us two rooms on stilts alongside each other . He also organised a safari for us, and managed to see we had lunch as well. After the initial unpleasantness, the rest of our stay in the resort went off without a hitch. It was actually a fantastic experience, with the staff being absolutely charming, but never fawning, and efficient, short of being intrusive. Turns out (and please note, for those traveling there) that the parent company had only recently acquired this resort and needless to say, communication lines weren't exactly functioning well.Now each 
Safari vehicle accomodates six medium sized people, so we had to share our vehicle with another couple. A young couple, both so-called Army brats as we found out later, were wonderful company and fit right in to our group. An 
equal mix of humour with a passion for seeing wildlife, we spent the entire afternoon and evening prowling around the reserve slowly getting excited about the occasional chital to finally turning away in disgust after the hundredth or so. We did see a number of birds though, a host of langur, peafowl as well as some sambar. So with some success, we turned back to the resort. After a quiet evening sipping wine in the m
achan situated there, we helped ourself to a fantastic dinner, before setting out of the resort for a short walk. An earthern pathway connects the resort to the main road that leads to the reserve. In the moonlight, and quiet, it was hard to not believe that the occasional big cat might slip across the border of the reserve and land up in our path. A note to prospective travelers who are like to indulge in these nocturnal forays - do not read Corbett before arriving! Didn't get to see the stars as they were a few clouds, but got to hear the distinct accusatory cry (did did did did-you-do-it) of the red-wattled lapwing across the nearby fields.
Safari vehicle accomodates six medium sized people, so we had to share our vehicle with another couple. A young couple, both so-called Army brats as we found out later, were wonderful company and fit right in to our group. An 
equal mix of humour with a passion for seeing wildlife, we spent the entire afternoon and evening prowling around the reserve slowly getting excited about the occasional chital to finally turning away in disgust after the hundredth or so. We did see a number of birds though, a host of langur, peafowl as well as some sambar. So with some success, we turned back to the resort. After a quiet evening sipping wine in the m
achan situated there, we helped ourself to a fantastic dinner, before setting out of the resort for a short walk. An earthern pathway connects the resort to the main road that leads to the reserve. In the moonlight, and quiet, it was hard to not believe that the occasional big cat might slip across the border of the reserve and land up in our path. A note to prospective travelers who are like to indulge in these nocturnal forays - do not read Corbett before arriving! Didn't get to see the stars as they were a few clouds, but got to hear the distinct accusatory cry (did did did did-you-do-it) of the red-wattled lapwing across the nearby fields.The next morning began with more promise. Of course it actually began with a hot bath followed by a chill shower and a cup of tea. We headed through the park gates at around 6AM. After about half an hour in the jeep ducking past vast giant wood spider webs, the vehicle 
stopped in the middle of the road, and the guide points to - pug marks!!! Then we hear alarm calls of chital and langur. The vehicle traveled up and down the trails following the calls, and after a while most of us were pretty sure that they were creating the drama and anticipation of seeing a tiger. So as we were getting quite blase about the calls, we heard a low guttural growl... and then again, moving away.
stopped in the middle of the road, and the guide points to - pug marks!!! Then we hear alarm calls of chital and langur. The vehicle traveled up and down the trails following the calls, and after a while most of us were pretty sure that they were creating the drama and anticipation of seeing a tiger. So as we were getting quite blase about the calls, we heard a low guttural growl... and then again, moving away.It's hard to describe what I felt, for the growl, though pitched low, was deep and the sound was for lack of a better word- powerful. Thinking that was the closest we were going to get to a tiger, we went to a camping spot, to get a pre-packed breakfast.
It was there the guide told us that the rangers had found a tigress and cubs with a day old kill. The vehicles 
trooped into the jungle, and from there we had to get down and take the rangers' elephant a short way into the jungle. This was the part where a majority of us were uncomfortable with the whole experiece, as though the elephant is the largest asiatic land mammal, when you consider it has to carry a total of five people on it's back, you start questioning your motives. Fortunately for us, and unfortunately so for the poor elephant we cast moral compunctions aside in our haste to see the tigress. So it's probably j
ust as well that it took only a five minute ride on elephantback to get to the clearing where the tigers were. We barely caught a glimpse of the cubs, as they were well hidden in the dense shrubbery. However the elephant turned a bit and there stretched out in a clearing - was the tigress. Though resting and digesting half a Sambar (in our excitement at seeing a tiger, we neglected to see the kill), she still looked magnificent, beautiful and absolutely robust.
trooped into the jungle, and from there we had to get down and take the rangers' elephant a short way into the jungle. This was the part where a majority of us were uncomfortable with the whole experiece, as though the elephant is the largest asiatic land mammal, when you consider it has to carry a total of five people on it's back, you start questioning your motives. Fortunately for us, and unfortunately so for the poor elephant we cast moral compunctions aside in our haste to see the tigress. So it's probably j
ust as well that it took only a five minute ride on elephantback to get to the clearing where the tigers were. We barely caught a glimpse of the cubs, as they were well hidden in the dense shrubbery. However the elephant turned a bit and there stretched out in a clearing - was the tigress. Though resting and digesting half a Sambar (in our excitement at seeing a tiger, we neglected to see the kill), she still looked magnificent, beautiful and absolutely robust.
For the four of us, this was our first wild tiger, and the sight was awesome. The rest of the safari seemed inconsequential,
although we managed to get pictures of Jackal, sambar and even a crested sepent eagle.Returning to the resort flush with the success of having shot (so to say) a tiger, the manager (who, after the initial hiccup, went out of his way ensuring we had a good stay), reminds me of my request/demand to see snakes one way or the other. He' s organised a trip of sorts where the four of u
s accompanied a ranger as he set out to release a number of snakes he 
had caught in the neighboring villages and resorts. Other than three very large and beautiful rat snakes, he unloaded cobras, a krait, and much to my delight two beautifully marked (and thankfully torpid) Russell's vipers. Renewing my acquantaince with the rat snake, we handled them for some time before we released them as well.
As luck would have it, or i believe karma - working to balance the fantastic luck we had - the vehicle tire developed a flat. It took about an hour to fix, During which time we prowled a bund that bordered a lake. A bunch of small kingfishers, too fast and distant to be adequately captured by our cameras, ducked in and out of 
the lake as they went about their business. We saw a great cormorant in the lake as well and were rewarded by the sight of it taking off, it's wings laboriously beating to pull that heavy body out of the water. Seeing the ripples, we were struck by how they looked like the splashes of skipped stones, and with the great maturity and restraint that comes with being in the third decade of existence, set about attempting to duplicate that phenomenon with stones grubbed from around the shore. Soon enough, the tire was fixed and then we were off, back to the resort, time enough to grab a quick bite of lunch before we caught the cab back to the airport.This time, a stopover at Haldiram's to pick up a ton of orange flavoured sweets, in a way making up for all those fresh oranges we missed, and an uneventful flight back home.
